You may have heard a bit by now about the boundless meatopia of Publican Quality Meats, the butcher-baker-sandwich maker adjunct to Paul Kahan’s Publican. It’s an overwhelming environment with its staggering cornucopia of meats—cured, encased, and fresh—its smartly curated collection of dry goods, the fresh rustic breads by Ehsan Ganji, and a freezer case full of frozen geese, wild boar roasts, and tubs of house-made stock and gelatinous bacon braise. I’ll tell you, if you ever crave the spontaneous exclamatory approval of a bunch of butchers, stand in front of the meat case and ask for a pound of blood sausage.