I returned from a quick trip to Milwaukee a few weeks ago with a remarkable cheese, an aged cheddar, sparsely shot with veins of blue mold. Dunbarton Blue, made by Roelli Cheese Haus in southwestern Shullsburg, Wisconsin, mashes up the sharp nuttiness of an English cheddar with a judicious but not insignificant spike of blue funk. Some have described it like a beginner’s blue, and while that’s easy to see, it also sells it a bit short. The first thing you think of is a Stilton—not as creamy, nor as pungent—but still with tons of character.

When I finally pulled my head out of the curds and took a look around, I realized that Dunbarton Blue is all over the place.