Yuk hwe is Korean steak tartare, made with a little soy, a little sesame oil, Asian pear, and a raw egg on top. For a multicourse belated birthday dinner, Friend of the Food Chain (and creator of the foie gras “ban” mi) Kristina Meyer devised this raw salmon (yeoneo) version, with quail egg, black sesame, and a kiss of lemon. Here’s the recipe:

1/2 lb. sashimi-grade fatty salmon
1 T extra-virgin olive oil
1 T soy sauce or tamari
1/2 tsp. pure lemon oil
1 shallot
minced coarse sea salt to taste
4 quail-egg yolks
black sesame seeds
seaweed rice cracker for garnish

Carefully slice salmon into quarter-inch cubes; add oils, soy, and shallot. Adjust seasoning with sea salt. Let marinate in the fridge for at least 30 minutes but not more than two hours. To serve, mound salmon in a small pile. Top each salmon mound with a quail egg yolk, then sprinkle with black sesame seeds and a dash of sea salt. Garnish with rice cracker.