Not since the rare appearance of salsa de cacahuate at Cermak Produce have I tasted a more appealing marriage of chiles and peanuts than mirchi ka salan, a peanut-based chile curry available at Rogers Park’s great Ghareeb Nawaz.

Friend of the Food Chain Ronna Beckman alerted me to this unusual and undersung curry innocuously inhabiting the bottom row of Ghareeb’s large pictorial wall menu. It’s not unusual in Hyderabad, from which it hails, and where it’s generally made from a combination of ground peanuts, sesame seeds, and dried coconut. I’ve had it made with big, green, mildly spicy chiles, but this weekend they were making it with sweet orange ones. It has tangy, creamy consistency that goes best with a paratha scoop from a heaping mound of Ghareeb’s always excellent biryani. At $4.99, it’s an excellent one-two punch that could easily feed a few hungry eaters.

Ghareeb Nawaz, 2032 W. Devon, 773-761-5300