• Elizabeth Gomez
  • nduja from Da Riv

I made an absolute rompiscatole of myself this winter after I learned that Carmelo Pugliese, maestro of the great Riviera Italian Foods, was making nduja. Aka “the red nutella,” nduja is a hot Calabrian spreadable salami that over the last year or two has been like catnip to food writers. Last summer I loaded up on a couple chubs from Boccalone, the San Francisco charcuterie operation manned by chef Chris Cosentino, and it didn’t last long after I got back. Though Boccalone’s nduja (say: “en-DOO-ya”) became my single point of reference for the stuff, I’ve since heard from others that it’s a rather wan imitation of the real thing.