• That doesn’t look so bad, does it?

Durian, the fierce, spinous, tropical “King of Fruits,” belongs to that fraternity of obscure and ostensibly repulsive things consumed by Western foodlums as a way to swing their experiential dicks around (see also balut, sannakji). Just maybe, if you can get past its barbed armor and the smell of rotten death that exudes from its custardy yellow flesh, you might have the stones to throw back shots of Malort with Andrew Zimmern.

So you have to give credit to Dallas-based gelato chain Paciugo for rolling out a durian ice cream—the third in a quartet of wacky flavors created in collaboration with Food Network chef Bob Blumer—that is pretty subtle, and takes advantage of the fruit’s near perfect utility in an ice cream.