pleated for your pleasure
  • Mike Sula
  • pleated for your pleasure

Nearly a year and a half ago the omnibus restaurant Hing Kee surprised everyone by stationing a dedicated noodle-puller in its front window. This is a place whose menu was, and continues to be, worryingly all over the map: Vietnamese, Chinese, Thai, and a sushi menu that included things like “sushi pizza” and “double punk rock & roll.” And yet it hired Chef Liu Chang Ming, a specialized craftsman whose mesmerizing noodle dough cat’s-cradle act was put prominently on display for all to see, an investment that surely pulls in aimless wanderers of the Chinatown Mall every day.

And as of a month and a half ago, they’ve got another draw: a dedicated soup-dumpling ringer.