Milanesa is easy to fuck up. How do I know? Because I’ve eaten a lot of fucked-up Milanesa over the past few months. Seems so easy: make meat thin, dredge meat, bread meat, fry meat. But fry it for too long or at too high a temperature and—poof!—thin meat disappears into even thinner air, leaving behind a cooked cocoon of Milanesa-shaped bread crumbs wrapped around the sad, stringy carcass of what used to be a pork cutlet. Milanesa might as well be Spanish for “meat ghost.”

At a few places I’ve visited recently, I got the impression that they really walk on the Milanesa wild side by prefrying their beef or pork cutlets then throwing them back in the deep fryer to heat them up to order. So basically there’s twice the chance they’ll transform the cutlet into the sole of a shoe.

I realize I don’t have to sell Cemitas Puebla to anyone, especially since Food Network Saturday shirt wearer Guy Fieri brought the Flavortown boat or whatever to the Humboldt Park sandwich shop a few years ago, making the spot better known than it was to begin with.

I very specifically want to sell you their cemita Milanesa.