My favorite Korean restaurant isn’t in Albany Park, or anywhere in the city, but some 12 miles north in suburban Glenview. For three years, I’ve been remiss by not writing about Cho Jung—especially because it always seems slow and sleepy—but I took the occasion of this week’s suburban eating guide to give it some long overdue love.

Cho Jung is beloved above all for its soups, and it’s difficult to not order the soondubu jigae, or tofu stew, by default. But on my last visit I went into uncharted territory and got something totally new to me.