Tortoise Club looks like a place your great-grandfather frequented—if he was a rich old white guy like onetime Sears chairman Robert E. Wood, whose portrait is ensconced there on a lipstick-red wall above a fireplace. Wood was great-grandpop to owner Keene Addington III, who transformed this quasi-subterranean space in Marina City (formerly a fitness center) into a mahogany and leather facsimile of a dining club from the last century. But it’s not stuffy: the vibe is warm and informal, service is attentive without being intrusive, and Wednesdays through Saturday nights there’s a mellow background of live jazz from the lounge up front.