The Square Kitchen in Lincoln Square has morphed into the somewhat more upscale Fiddlehead Cafe. The place is still finding its legs, so we haven’t sent a reviewer to check it out yet, but here’s what Patrick Brown, one of more than 2,000 volunteer Reader Restaurant Raters, has to say about a recent visit:
“The Square Kitchen mix’n’match concept is gone, the menu has changed drastically and the decor has been stripped (I assume they’ll decorate the place soon–it’s quite drab right now). The menu is sort of Franco-Cal bistro (for example, “steak frites” comprises skirt steak served with three fries: white potato, sweet potato and polenta). The wine list is well-chosen and reasonably broad in varieties and price points.
We started with a roasted beet salad; it was OK, but sort of matter-of-fact. A (very thin) grilled swordfish entree served with roasted brussels sprouts and red onion was also OK (the flavor balance was off a bit–the onions took charge). My companion had a roasted whitefish entree with cider-dijon jus; she liked it, I thought the flavors were a bit off. Dessert was outrageous: a very intense flourless chocolate cake served with cinnamon ice cream; the texture of the cake was quite coarse and the flavor was superb (and it was presented simply and dramatically). Coffee was a good fresh dark roast. Our server was welcoming and cordial; the bussers were a little too eager to clear the table, especially since the place was essentially empty early on a Saturday evening.
Though I am in mourning for Square Kitchen, I will say that Fiddlehead has promise: there are appealing appetizers and a few intriguing entrees. With some decor and a little more attention to the cooking, this could be a good place in its own right.”