I generally resort to eating quesadillas only when there’s nothing but cheese and tortillas around. I’m not saying they’re useless, but if you have anything more interesting at your disposal why wouldn’t you just make tacos? Or grilled cheese? It’s difficult to imagine ordering quesadillas out anywhere, particularly if you happen to be on 25th Street in Little Village, where La Chapparita #1 beckons with its irresistible assortment of tacos de fritangas. It took a recommendation from an authority, taco scholar Titus Ruscitti, to drag me six blocks west to Las Quecas, a quesadilla specialist from the owner of the adjoining Catedral Cafe.

You better be singular in purpose because quesadillas are all they do they do there. Huge masa tortillas are hand formed and griddled to order, layered with one of 16 different fillings, then folded and flattened until the exteriors blister and the interiors bubble. There are a few chicken and beef options, but the menu is dominated by pork, including the rare chicharron prensado (shaved from pressed pork-skin loaves), cochinita pibil, chorizo and potato, and a tomatoey pulled-pork leg. There are an equal number of vegetarian options, though, including huitlacoche, mushroom, cactus, and, for now at least, local squash blossoms sauteed in tomato and onion. If you’ve dragged any picky children along, there’s always the classic, plain chihuahua cheese variety.

These are gigantic quesadillas—a trademark argument for “quesadillas as big as your head” couldn’t be summarily dismissed—and at $2.99 apiece they’re a terrific deal, even though they aren’t overstuffed. That can certainly be remedied at the self-serve condiment bar stocked with crema, pickled onions, and five salsas, including the rare and elusive peanut-based salsa de cacahuate.

OK, it’s not entirely about quesadillas. They also make some wonderful alfajores, sugar-dusted caramel sandwich cookies, which are worth a stop even if you aren’t in market for quesadillas.

Las Quecas, 2500-B S. Christiana, 773-801-0597, lasquecas.com. A second location recently opened in Melrose Park at 2130 W. North, 708-397-4615