Korea meets NOLA in a fried-oyster ssam

In this week’s Food & Drink, Sam Worley takes the second of two red doors at Troy Graves’s new Bucktown gastropub, the Red Door, entering a large enclosed patio that provides a convivial setting for seasonal cocktails and globally inspired pub fare. The kitchen, he finds, has a way with veggies, from simple greens with beets, Wisconsin’s Bohemian Blue cheese, and a “killer” buttermilk-dill vinaigrette to the kimchi and pickles that accompany fried oyster ssam with with tasso ham and remoulade. But at the apotheosis is a “perfect lemongrass chicken thigh” with grilled spring onion, mint, and roasted peanuts—an “easy, internationally flavored plate that lands just where it aims to.”