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Tuesday night, Shochu–the izakaya-style restaurant memorably reviewed by Irma Nuñez and open just since this summer–morphed into Deleece Grill Pub under the same owners, Lynne Wallack and John Handler of Deleece. Chef-partner Josh Hansen has come up with a comfort-food-heavy menu focusing on steaks and hearty sides like potatoes au gratin, bacon potato salad, bacon-rosemary stuffing, and hand-cut fries. An Asian touch remains in dishes like miso-lychee coleslaw, but Wallack is touting the Americanness of the offerings–including beer, wine, and artisanal cheeses. In a nod to the dismal economy, a three-course meal is $20 on Sunday and Wednesday nights.

Looks like shochu, the distilled spirit the restaurant served up in fancy cocktails, never caught on with the Wrigleyville crowd. Maybe they should have tried happoshu.

Deleece Grill Pub, 3313 N. Clark, 773-348-3313, open Sunday and Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30 PM-midnight, Friday and Saturday, 5:30 PM-2 AM, and Sunday for brunch, 10:30 AM-2:30 PM.