Preserved lemons, like fish sauce, anchovies, capers, fresh horseradish—even dried limes—are one of those versatile ingredients that can be a home cook’s ace in the hole in innumerable ways. Though they’re primarily known for their use in Moroccan tagines, you can use the rind and/or pulp in soups, stews, and anything sauteed. Lately, when I’m roasting cauliflower, which is a lot, I’ve been using an umami trifecta of capers, fish sauce, and preserved lemons.