For the second year in a row, my ladyfriend’s mom sent back a gigantic jar of homemade kimchi after Thanksgiving. Last year she sent the regular cut cabbage variety (tongbaechu) which she ever so lightly sweetens with asian pear (another excellent use for this most versatile of fruits, one that the Pear Lady declared “fancy.”) This year I’m in possession of about six year’s worth of whole-radish kimchi, aka chongak kimchi, aka “bachelor’s kimchi,” named for the long strand of greenery left dangling at tip of the white stubby radish. It’s meant to resemble the the unshorn locks of young unchained Korean men of yore. I really like this bit of shrubbery, which is saturated with peppery juice, but the radish itself is still very fresh and slightly but nicely bitter. Personally, I like my kimchi on the funky side and I’ve been told this stuff needs a good three more weeks in the fridge before it’s at its prime. Unlike Martha I can’t give the recipe because the chef is strangely mercurial about her methods, but if anyone’s really interested (and willing to come get it), I’ll donate a small jar in the spirit of paying it forward, and reducing the the aggressive aroma dominating my fridge. First come. . .