Ravenswood’s Me Dee Cafe is an odd little place, a mere six tables squeezed between a wall of Thai snacks, a freezer full of mochi, and walls decorated with squabbling cartoon brats and troubled cows (a herd of bipedal, urinating bovines graces the wall in the loo). The main menu is loaded with inexpensive but decorously presented Ameri-Thai standards with hints of fusiony gimmickry such as a noodle dish tossed with fat disks of Polish sausage, grilled mushrooms with chihuahua cheese, and plates garnished with raspberry and blackberry gumdrops.

But there are a number of other things that make Me Dee far more intriguing than just that.