Bravo to the great Calumet Fisheries, which was just given one of the James Beard Foundation’s America’s Classics Awards honoring “small, regional restaurants, watering holes, shacks, lunch counters, and similar down-home eateries that have carved out a special place on the American culinary landscape.”

Following last year’s feature on No Reservations, the humble south-side shack’s profile has blown up quite a bit. But it wasn’t always so.