David Tamarkin and Michael Nagrant got into a (not terribly heated) row about TOC‘s profile of the brothers Melman. I guess LEYE is considered sorta middlebrow pop entertainment as far as Chicago food goes, but . . . that’s how people tend to get started with many of the finer things in life. (He who did not grow up with MTV or suburban chain restaurants may cast the first spoon.) In 2006, the Reader‘s Elizabeth Tamny, in one of my favorite essays we’ve run, argues that Lettuce Entertain You played an important role in making Chicago a culinary destination—both by providing eaters a gateway to adventurous fine cuisine, and by providing steady employment for chefs.