In this week’s Food & Drink Mike Sula reviews Monti’s, a Lincoln Square barstaurant from Rockit vet and Philadelphia native son James Gottwald and his wife (and fellow Philly expat), Jennifer Monti. Gottwald brings in par-baked rolls from Philly’s famed Amoroso’s Baking Company, melts down his own aged Wisconsin cheddar cheese sauce, and pours it over his shaved and griddled rib eye, where it enhances rather than smothers a la Cheez Whiz. And in addition to variants on the standard, hoagies and grinders, and a few vegetarian consolations, there’s outstanding fried calamari and unexpectedly successful pizzas, the latter customizable with upmarket toppings like lobster and wild mushrooms.