Pepperoni Credit: Mike Sula

My search for a Detroit-style pizza in Chicago that bests the chain squares from Jet’s continues. I already told you about the Logan Squares at Paulie Gee’s—limited edition, almost faithfully executed, buttery, cheesy-crusted wonders that suffer from one fatal flaw: cold sauce. So I was eager to check out the pies from Union Squared in thronged Revival Food Hall, the second outpost of Evanston’s Detroit-style joint from the folks behind the bustling Neapolitan spot Union Pizzeria

Special with chorizo, pineapple, red onion, and roasted jalapeño cream
Special with chorizo, pineapple, red onion, and roasted jalapeño creamCredit: Mike Sula

Union Squared’s stall comes equipped with a wide bar pouring a red, a white, and a beer each day, and serving the odd non-pizza item like, say, ribollita. The main attraction, though, are the five varieties of square pies, available whole or in quarter slices, including four regular varieties: the standard top-sauced pepperoni, quattro formaggi, wild mushroom, and a “supreme,” with mozzarella, brick cheese, sausage, pepperoni, mushroom, onion, and green pepper. There’s also a rotating special, currently chorizo with pineapple, red onion, and roasted jalapeño cream, which theoretically resembles my go-to order at Jet’s.

It’s a sloppy, appealing formula, but the real test is the all-important crust. At Union Squared’s it’s lighter and airier than at Paulie Gee’s and Jet’s, and the somewhat thinner edges lead to a more delicately caramelized rim. Still, it’s regrettably missing that distinctive butteriness characteristic of the style, and there’s an overall deficiency in seasoning, all of which make it an unremarkable B-minus. Points for the hot sauce on the pepperoni though.

Union Squared inside Revival Food Hall
Union Squared inside Revival Food HallCredit: Mike Sula

Union Squared, Revival Food Hall, 125 S. Clark