The quiet ubiquity of cevapcici on the north side is something I’ve been meaning to address for years. These stubby, unencased ground-meat sausages are nearly as common as hamburgers in some neighborhoods, but are generally only served in the Balkan restaurants that began to open in the early to mid-90s in the wake of the breakup of Yugoslavia—restaurants frequented almost exclusively by folks who came from there. It’s too bad cevapcici aren’t embraced more broadly, though the itinerant Cevapcici Chicago has a pretty high profile on the festival circuit. The sausages take a variety of forms, from the chubby lamb-and-beef zeppelins at Brisku’s Bistro (where they’re known by their Albanian name qebapa) to the slender Serbian extrusions at Beograd Meat Market to the bite-size thumburgers at Kiko’s in Lincoln Square.

Kiko’s, a Bosnian restaurant with a retail grocery adjunct, has been around since 2003, quietly serving a broad but typically carnecentric variety of Balkan specialties; smoked-beef-and-sausage-stuffed crepes, roast lamb, tripe stew, fried veal kidneys, kebabs, and the mozzarella-stuffed Juicy Lucy known as punjena pljeskavica. But it’s always difficult to take a pass on the dense, taut, all-beef cevapcici (or chevapi on the menu) served on the fat, pitalike bread known as lepinje with the creamy, fresh clotted cream kaymak, onions, and fries ($8). They’re also available next door in the market to cook in the comfort of your own home.

Dobar obrok!

Kiko’s Market & Restaurant, 5077 N. Lincoln, 773-271-7006,