• Andy Barnes
  • Duck egg pasta with confit and cracklings, one of Two’s hits

“Does a restaurant exist if Google can’t find it?” Mike Sula philosophically asks this week. Well, yes, in the case of West Town’s Two, a new neighborhood bistro from Yamandu Perez, chef-owner of Hinsdale’s Zak’s Place. Nevertheless, the place suffers from something of an identity crisis, distinguished by neither its concept (locally sourced, eh? what else is new?) nor its execution. In fact, Sula’s meals there were so wildly inconsistent that Two might as well as have been two different restaurants, on one occasion offering snarfable duck egg pasta, fat little lamb T-bones, and a fall-off-the-bone chicken thigh, but on the next serving flaccid sausage and bruschetta on cold toasts. The upshot? Two has swept out “the ghosts of the Black Sheep to make way for entirely new ones.”