Chris Turners hog skulls

  • Elizabeth Gomez
  • Chris Turner’s hog skulls

It’s been pretty well established that no restaurant in town hews as religiously to snout-to-tail doctrine as Mado. Rob Levitt’s assiduous, economical, and respectful devotion to what chef Fergus Henderson calls The Whole Beast results in a fantastic array of dishes from spicy pig head stew to grilled beef tongue to various miracles of charcuterie. But lately, Levitt’s sous chef Chris Turner has taken things a step further, producing art from parts not even they can find a delicious use for.