For the third time this year, Mike Sula reviews Next, the celebrated time-traveling, globe-hopping restaurant from Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas. The theme for its present incarnation is Childhood, and Achatz and executive chef Dave Beran have devised a number of ways to put an Alinea-like spin on kiddie standards such as PB&J and Campbell’s chicken noodle soup. The seventh of ten courses comes in a retro lunch box—Smurfs, Alf, Knight Rider—and consists of a thermos full of mixed berry juice and port, a black-and-white truffle Oreo, an apple brandy-port fruit rollup, a plug of Wagyu beef jerky, a house-made Funyun, pudding, and a handwritten note that might read “Enjoy your lovely lunch that I made. Study hard and stay awake! Love, Dad.”