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  • Eric Futran
  • Butternut-squash-stuffed cappallacci with brown butter and sage

Mike Sula reviews Ripasso, the new Wicker Park restaurant from Theo Gilbert, formerly of Terragusto. As at the latter, pastas are the magnet, with some dishes such as the butternut squash cappellacci with brown butter and sage carrying over from the old menu. The addition of a cocktail menu overseen by former Drawing Room mixologist Tim Lacey and a large wine list with some uncommon regional Italian selections gets Sula’s thumbs-up. But he finds many of the offerings, from the bread to the underseasoned sauces, in need of a pinch or two of salt if they’re to compete with restaurants like the Florentine, Piccolo Sogno, Antico, and Berwyn’s Autre Monde.