Mike Sula reviews Goosefoot, the new BYO fine-dining spot from Les Nomades vet Chris Nugent, where he’s currently offering an eight-course tasting menu for $90, with a 12-course option in the works. It’s all delicious, he says, from “stomach-priming” first courses like chestnut soup topped with truffle foam to quail on a bed of curried lentils he “could eat a whole bowl of.” But ultimately he finds it “too fastidious for its own good,” and urges Nugent to let his hair down a la Schwa’s Michael Carlson or Phillip Foss of El Ideas, whose similarly ambitious and technically brilliant menus are leavened by informality, music, and free-flowing booze.

In the listings are more restaurants in Lincoln Square, among them Sula’s much-beloved Nhu Lan Bakery and Jimmy’s Pizza Cafe, where you can follow up your New York-style slice with beignets.