• Jen Moran
  • Deer Isle shrimp, cauliflower, cuttlefish noodles, chorizo, marcona almonds, and spoon bread

Mike Sula reviews Acadia, on the near south side, where Courtright’s vet Ryan McCaskey is offering fine dining in which foams, emulsions, powders, and garnishes manage to coalesce and harmonize, adding synergy to dishes rather than seeming like manifestations of technique for its own sake (as he found at Goosefoot last week). McCaskey’s aided and abetted by bartender Michael Simon, whose cocktails like the Cognac Dreamsicle—champagne, vermouth, and orange liqueur—and the Amnesiac, made with absinthe ice cubes, may just keep you from the wine list.