• Colleen Durkin
  • Owners Henry and Gloria Henderson with cook Lillie Joiner at Ruby’s

This week’s 40th anniversary issue revisits highlights from the past, among them Elizabeth M. Tamny’s 2006 chefs’ family tree, which traced the burgeoning culinary scene of the time back to six key fine-dining establishments of the 60s, 70s, and 80s. In just a half-decade the tree has bloomed still further; Mike Sula and I chart the current field, from Achatz to Zrenner, farm-to-table to food trucks, and high-brow to low.

In the listings are 16 venerable restaurants still ticking, among them Daley’s, which dates back to 1892; Ruby’s. which revived the beloved west-side soul food joint Edna’s earlier this year; Greek Islands and R.J. Grunts, both of which are also 40; and the Village, Italian Village’s third-floor restaurant, which Ira Glass praises in his review as a place where “it isn’t possible to be unhappy.”

Key Ingredient returns next week.