• Martha Busse
  • Whole-wheat pappardelle with lamb ragu at Madison’s Nostrano

For our annual summer guide, Mike Sula made his way up to Madison, Wisconsin, where expat Chicago chefs Tim and Elizabeth Dahl—former pastry chefs at Blackbird and Boka, respectively—have opened their own place, Nostrano. An Italian-leaning spot in the landmark flatiron Jackman Building on a corner of Capitol Square, it showcases the diversity of southern Wisconsin’s meat, cheese, and vegetable producers in dishes like chicken agnolotti with ramps and Viola-grown oyster mushrooms and a butter lettuce salad with candied olives, radishes, and crumbled blue cheese from nearby Seymour. And then there are Elizabeth’s desserts, sweet reminders that Chicago’s loss is Madison’s gain.