- Julia Thiel
- Barry Sorkin’s dragon turds
Mike Sula reviews the first incarnation of Next, where the decadent multicourse menu modeled on Escoffier’s Le Guide Culinaire brings on tears, hallucinations, and reveries worthy of Proust. Executive chef Dave Beran manages to merit the hype lavished on this project from Alinea partners Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonos, from his exquisite hors d’oeuvres like oeuf Benedictine through turtle soup and pressed duck with potatoes dauphinoise to a Sauternes-style sorbet and mignardises. Alas, in keeping with the time-travel theme behind Next, the Paris 1906-set opener is not long for this world—Beran’s already doing his homework for the next incarnation, a Thai restaurant due to debut in June.