• Michael Goss
  • Next executive chef Dave Beran prepares som tam

Mike Sula reviews the second incarnation of Next, Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas’s celebrated new restaurant, where this time around chef Dave Beran and his team are presenting a Tour of Thailand that begins with a rice-perfumed entry and starters of street food bites and proceeds through a dessert of whole coconut filled with five sweets including sugared egg strands cooked in saffron and star anise syrup that he finds “jaw-dropping.” In between are refined versions of Thai dishes such as som tam and tom yam and some curveballs like relishes served with jasmine rice and meant to be eaten with a fork in your left hand and a spoon in your right.