Transformations takes a look at how the new chefs are faring at three area restaurants: Sepia, the sleek “modern speakeasy” where Andrew Zimmerman, late of Del Toro and NoMi, has stepped into the shoes of Kendal Duque;  Goose Island Brewpub, where John Manion of Mas fame is offering a well-meaning if uneven local/sustainable/snout-to-tail menu; and Evanston’s Quince, where Pete Balodimas, the chef behind Saint Charles’s critically acclaimed but shortlived Fahrenheit, is trying to rival the space’s famous predecessor, Trio, with his splashy food. 

Next week, another look at the latest of the city’s new restaurants, among them Bridgeport’s Han 202, Pilsen’s Ristorante al Teatro, and Logan Square’s Fuego Mexican Grill & Margarita Lounge.