If you took a quick gander at the sheeple herded in front of McDonald’s in O’Hare’s Terminal One, you couldn’t guess Rick Bayless was doing God’s work right next door. I showed up for a flight early last week, expecting Xoco-length lines at Tortas Frontera, his first quick-serve sandwich joint in the airport (the second recently opened in Terminal Three), but I breezed in and bellied up to the small bar in the rear for a couple tortas and some preflight medicative margaritas. These couldn’t possibly approach the quality of his River North tortas, could they?

Pretty damn close. This place should be mobbed.