What do you call a French dip sandwich in France? Nothing! Like the Philly cheese steak or the Italian beef, this iconic shaved-meat sandwich served au jus on a baguette is an American invention, probably created at one of two iconic Los Angeles eateries (there’s abiding controversy).

That hasn’t stopped chef Bradford Phillips of Troquet—the newish “neighborhood French bar” from the folks who brought you LM—from putting one on the menu. As it goes, that’s about the only non-Frenchy thing to eat at this Ravenswood corner bar, the home of Wolcott’s until owners Stephan and Nicole Outrequin Quaisser took it over in March. That wasn’t long before they reopened the restaurant in the Essex Hotel (the ill-fated, erstwhile Tribute) after luring Phillips away from the Pump Room to command both. In scope and ambition, both menus are way scaled back from anything he was doing there, or, for that matter, anything he did at LM when he was the Outrequin Quaissers’ opening chef.