This week the venerable Le Francais and the six-month-old Graze both abruptly shut their doors, the former prompting a flood of nostalgia for heavy cream and Grand Marnier souffle and the latter speculation that small plates are so totally 2006. To which I can only say, “no, but small-plates restaurants decorated by Kermit the Frog on acid may well be.” (Adam at MenuPages Chicago wraps up all the relevant coverage here.)