This week in Omnivorous I wrote about now-defunct Chicago cookbook publishers the Culinary Arts Institute and its director of 11 years, Ruth Berolzheimer. Flipping through its best-known title, the massive 1939 American Woman’s Cook Book, I struggled to pick out an appropriate recipe to put up on the blog. It was tempting to choose one of the curiosities–cottage cheese and peanut loaf anyone? Peeled melon filled with tomato aspic and frosted with cream cheese? But nah–most of the dishes in this book wouldn’t seem out of place on the dinner table today, and look pretty tempting and simple. Many are enduring American classics. See if you can snag some late-season corn and try these oysters (not to be confused with fritters . . . or actual oysters).

I’d use bacon fat in the mix, fry them in lard, and drizzle them with maple syrup on the plate.

Corn oysters

2 cups corn pulp

2 eggs

2 tbs flour

2 tbs fat

salt and pepper

If fresh corn is used, grate it from the cob with a coarse grater. If canned corn is used, select one of the sieved varieties. Beat the egg-yolks and whites separately and add to the grated corn, with flour and fat, salt and pepper. Drop the batter from a spoon into hot fat (360-370 F) and fry light brown (2-3 minutes). Drain on soft paper. Serve hot.

From The American Woman’s Cook Book, Consolidated Book Publishers, Inc., 1939

Culled for the listings this week: 15 “American” restaurants.