In Omnivorous this week I lose my mind over L2O and lose hope at Graham Elliot, but don’t overlook the additional eight brand-spanking-new reviews this week. I’m particularly taken with the red-sauce joint Viaggio, commanded by chef Anthony Rissoli, who’s putting out big, bombastic, but surprisingly good southern Italian-American classics. That’s in stark contrast to the well-meaning but well-awful Parmigian.* Betraying her naked south-side bias, Kate Schmidt baits the bleachers at Harry Caray’s Tavern in Wrigleyville and rolls her eyes at Epic Burger’s in-house hype. David Hammond digs the Franco-Mexican fusion at Mexique and dutifully catalogs yet another imperfect but adequate Spanish tapas joint, Bull-Eh-Dias. And then there’s Dawali, and Ja’s Jerk Chicken.
*Which, wouldn’t you know it, now appears to have closed.