• Tozi
  • Barbecue and banchan

Crystal gazers have been predicting the ascension of Korean food to Next Big Thing status for years. But with the impact of chefs like David Chang (Momofuku, etc), Roy Choi of Los Angeles’s Kogi BBQ, and locally, Bill Kim, I’d say we’ve been there for a while—superficially at least. Kim’s Urban Belly and Belly Shack, and other neo-Korean efforts such as BopNGrill, Crisp, and Del Seoul are more about fusion than a direct, unpolluted expression of the Korean palate.