One of the drawbacks of this gig is that there’s such a constant stream of new places to eat (many mediocre to worse) that after I’ve done my duty and weighed in on as many as I can, there’s never enough time to frequent the ones that really distinguish themselves (I know, I know).

I keep telling myself that the reason I haven’t yet published a proper review of Zebda, the North African-leaning Mediterranean take-out partnership between Tassili Cafe owner Mohammed Djeddour and ex-Mundial-Cocina Mestiza chef Katie Garcia, is that they haven’t yet fully ramped up to their promised offerings—they just started entrees two days ago. The truth is, everything I’ve tried there is so good I don’t really want to move on.