• Andrea Bauer
  • Honeydew spheres strewn with baby cucumbers, arugula, and candied peanuts

In this week’s Food & Drink, Mike Sula reviews Premise, where chef Brian Runge, formerly of Graham Elliot, has introduced a seasonal menu of modernist cuisine without the egoistic self-references. Here you’ll find lots of fish—a crispy bass fillet or a refined presentation of mackerel, of all things—and dishes like seared spring lamb loin, “silky and perfectly rare slices that spent some time in the water circulator, dressed with tahini and a spicy Greek yogurt sauce, and accompanied by charred zucchini batons.” Prix fixe options are also available, among them a $100 three-course dinner for two with complimentary wine pairings on Wednesdays. Those pining for the more casual fare of In Fine Spirits can turn to the “neighborhood menu,” inexpensive small plates including fried green tomatoes, octopus salad, and charcuterie. And upstairs in the salon bar, bartender Luke LeFiles, formerly of Hot Chocolate, is presiding over a cocktail lounge Sula likens to the Aviary‘s subterranean Office, “but with better drinks and none of the exclusivity.”