Posted inFood & Drink

For beer, FOBAB

It’s exhilarating just to anticipate the annual Festival of Wood and Barrel-Aged Beer (FOBAB). I don’t know if it is the prospect of being surrounded by so many high ABV (alcohol by volume) beers that brings this out in me or the fact that there was only a virtual version last year. The sheer thought […]

Posted inFood & Drink

The Reader’s first food critic was a diabetic undergrad with an appetite for the undiscovered

T he Reader has covered food and restaurants in Chicago throughout its half-century existence, though not nearly as consistently or comprehensively as music, film, drama, or most of the other arts—certainly not every week when I came on as a starving editorial assistant way back in ’95. Back then there was a very occasional visual […]

Posted inFood & Drink

The return of the roti at Cafe Trinidad

In 2016, Darryl Hicks shuttered the city’s first and only Trinidadian restaurant, Cafe Trinidad. It was a serious responsibility to stand as the sole representative of a Caribbean cuisine that synthesizes centuries of contributions from African, Indian, Indigenous, Creole, Syrian, Lebanese, Spanish, Portuguese, and Chinese cooks. And it wasn’t an easy decision to close. But […]