The nights are getting colder. Your body, sensing the darkness ahead, craves warmth, reassurance, fat. It’s finally pozole season. But for Javier Garcia it’s never not pozole season. He grew up in Guadalajara, eating bowls of the thick, sticky, hominy, and pork stewy-soup (stoup?) for every event, birthday, and celebration. His mom’s pozole ruined him […]
Category: Food & Drink Column
Get down with Don Pablo’s big Chilean empanadas at Monday Night Foodball
Pablo Soto has delivered empanadas to me on two different occasions. Each time these plus-sized, Chilean-style pockets of pleasure have tasted as if they were pulled directly out of the oven or fryer and delivered straight into my greedy gob. I don’t know what sorcery Soto uses to maintain the extraordinary flaky freshness of his […]
It’s Ethan Lim’s Khmerican bar food vs. your wolfish hunger at Monday Night Foodball
Earlier this summer I sat down to one of the most exclusive tables in town. No, not Alinea. Not Ever. Nor was it The Crib, (RIP). It was an eight-course blowout at Hermosa, Ethan Lim’s tiny sandwich shop by day, six-seat “Family Meal” prix fixe by night. Lim’s ongoing nocturnal pop-up—during which he buries his […]
Please line up for Funeral Potatoes at Monday Night Foodball
Last week, Eve Studnicka, with an assist from her Funeral Potatoes partner Alexis Thomas, took part in an amazing pop-up with Borneol, Texas butcher (and former Chicagoan) Kriss Abigail. Abigail had arrived in town with an axis deer carcass harvested in the Hill Country, which she broke down at Saint Emeric in front of 30 […]
The farmer’s dilemma
The farmer’s dilemma: a quick, clean slaughterhouse kill or a great life that ends with pain?
Bar Toma: a wine bar for everyone
Tony Mantuano’s new Bar Toma tries too hard and falls short.
The principal of Thai cookery
Celebrity Chef McDang is an enforcer of his country’s cuisine
The Boka group scores again with GT Fish & Oyster
One late night last week the fat togarashi-vinegar-and-malt-powder-dusted steak fries that accompanied an order of battered cod fingers at GT Fish & Oyster came to the table in a cone tightly folded from page 22 of the April 14 Reader, which happened to recommend 15 of our favorite seafood spots. I’m not sure if that’s […]
Garlic mustard threatens habitats across the country. One response? Weed it and eat it.
What to do about the invasive weed garlic mustard–recipes and a cocktail included!
Books for Cooks
Reviews of the spring crop of cheffoirs, local author Heather Shouse’s new book on food trucks, and more
Omnivorous: Lent, Mexican Style
Lent brings especialidades de Cuaresma to town.
Lure Izakaya Pub: another sign of Chinatown’s gastronomic renaissance
Chinatown is undergoing a gastronomic renaissance.
Omnivorous: Chef Brian Jupiter’s Got His Game On at Frontier
The new Noble Square barstaurant is offering whole smoked animals and a lot more.
Dinner on a Dime, From a Vintage Cookbook
Chef Troy Graves tries out a 115-year-old cookbook, but skips the squirrel.