Food & Drink Column Archives - Page 3 of 13

Limón y Sal launches pozole season at Monday Night Foodball

by Mike Sula October 19, 2021June 27, 2022

The nights are getting colder. Your body, sensing the darkness ahead, craves warmth, reassurance, fat. It’s finally pozole season. But for Javier Garcia it’s never not pozole season. He grew up in Guadalajara, eating bowls of the thick, sticky, hominy, and pork stewy-soup (stoup?) for every event, birthday, and celebration. His mom’s pozole ruined him […]

Uncategorized

Get down with Don Pablo’s big Chilean empanadas at Monday Night Foodball

by Mike Sula October 13, 2021June 27, 2022

Pablo Soto has delivered empanadas to me on two different occasions. Each time these plus-sized, Chilean-style pockets of pleasure have tasted as if they were pulled directly out of the oven or fryer and delivered straight into my greedy gob. I don’t know what sorcery Soto uses to maintain the extraordinary flaky freshness of his […]

Food & Drink

It’s Ethan Lim’s Khmerican bar food vs. your wolfish hunger at Monday Night Foodball

by Mike Sula October 8, 2021June 27, 2022

Earlier this summer I sat down to one of the most exclusive tables in town. No, not Alinea. Not Ever. Nor was it The Crib, (RIP). It was an eight-course blowout at Hermosa, Ethan Lim’s tiny sandwich shop by day, six-seat “Family Meal” prix fixe by night. Lim’s ongoing nocturnal pop-up—during which he buries his […]

Food & Drink

Please line up for Funeral Potatoes at Monday Night Foodball

by Mike Sula September 23, 2021June 27, 2022

Last week, Eve Studnicka, with an assist from her Funeral Potatoes partner Alexis Thomas, took part in an amazing pop-up with Borneol, Texas butcher (and former Chicagoan) Kriss Abigail. Abigail had arrived in town with an axis deer carcass harvested in the Hill Country, which she broke down at Saint Emeric in front of 30 […]

Bare Knuckle Farm, on northern Michigan's Leelanau Peninsula, raises hogs in orchards where they forage on apples, pears, chestnuts, and worms.

Food & Drink

The farmer’s dilemma

by Mike Sula October 17, 2012August 19, 2021

The farmer’s dilemma: a quick, clean slaughterhouse kill or a great life that ends with pain?

Food & Drink

Bar Toma: a wine bar for everyone

by Mike Sula January 19, 2012August 19, 2021

Tony Mantuano’s new Bar Toma tries too hard and falls short.

Food & Drink

Chinatown’s subterranean Snack Planet

by Mike Sula November 10, 2011August 19, 2021

Chinatown’s subterranean Snack Planet

M.L. Sirichalerm Svasti, aka Chef McDang

Food & Drink

The principal of Thai cookery

by Mike Sula July 21, 2011August 19, 2021

Celebrity Chef McDang is an enforcer of his country’s cuisine

Food & Drink

The Boka group scores again with GT Fish & Oyster

by Mike Sula May 5, 2011August 19, 2021

One late night last week the fat togarashi-vinegar-and-malt-powder-dusted steak fries that accompanied an order of battered cod fingers at GT Fish & Oyster came to the table in a cone tightly folded from page 22 of the April 14 Reader, which happened to recommend 15 of our favorite seafood spots. I’m not sure if that’s […]