Nellcôte uses house-milled flour 
for pizza dough.
Nellcôte uses house-milled flour for pizza dough. Credit: Andrea Bauer

THE FOOD ISSUE: Ancient Methods, Modern Cuisine

Read about how Megan and Dave Miller of Baker Miller are reviving the lost art of milling flour.

1248 W. 18th

Jeffrey Hallenbeck, the self-taught baker at this Pilsen storefront, makes his croissants and other pastries with butter he cultures and then hand-churns himself, an elaborate process that can take as long as 24 hours.

810 Dempster, Evanston

Baker Ellen King takes the past seriously; she’s studied historic preservation as well as cooking. She and her crew mix, knead, and shape their breads by hand and then allow them to ferment and rise with wild, not commercial, yeast.

833 W. Randolph

For his pizzas, breads, and pastas, chef Jared Van Camp produces his own superfine flour from locally grown wheat with a custom-made mill in the restaurant’s basement. He says his flour tastes better and won’t have adverse effects on gluten-intolerant customers.

Hoosier Mama Pie Company
1618 1/2 W. Chicago and 749 N. Chicago, Evanston

Paula Haney has scoured old cookbooks to uncover old-fashioned techniques for preparing her pies, particularly the crust. She’s also experimented with old recipes, including ones for vinegar pie and for sugar pie.