Dragon Court2414 S. Wentworth | 312-791-1882

$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: every night till midnight | BYO

Dragon Court is a Cantonese restaurant decorated with aquarium tanks of lobster, crab, and the astonishingly ugly monkfish. It’s on the farther-than-you’d-like-to-walk side of Wentworth, out on the edge of the expressway, which may explain why it gets too little praise for its excellent menu. The locals know about it, though: on a harsh, snowy night, the dining room was full. Aided by an attentive staff of abashed young Chinese men, we feasted on garlic-dusted crispy chicken, pork with bok choy and taro root, and a perfectly fried fish and tofu stew. We concluded with a truly terrific lamb and watercress hot pot spiced with star anise. Dragon Court has a running seafood fire sale: two specialty entrees nets you a whole steamed fish, three a crab. Nicholas Day

Ed’s Potsticker House3139 S. Halsted | 312-326-6898

$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 11 | BYO

To gain access to Ed’s amazing repertoire of delicious northern Chinese specialties start by asking for the leather-bound Chinese menu with English translations, then ask about the specials hanging on the wall, and if something appeals to you don’t let anyone talk you out of it. You could spend weeks happily exploring: house pot stickers are long cigars of crispy, porky goodness, and the complex lamb, stir-fried with dried chiles, is carried from the kitchen with great regularity. Beef stew with noodle is a massive, very soupy bowl of tender beef chunks with a nice touch of spice. “Fish-fragrant” eggplant has nothing to do with fish—it’s really just a version of eggplant with garlic sauce that renders the fruit light and puffy, with a delicate, crispy outer crust. Don’t overlook the cold appetizers: a bowl of tofu with bits of preserved egg is a nice lesson in subtle textural contrasts, and the sliced pork leg with soy sauce is cut thinly in cross section so you can see the varying textures of the different muscles, rimmed by a layer of caramelized fat. Even cosmetically challenged selections tend to be terrific: lily flowers and bean thread noodle is sort of a grayish lump of noodles studded with wilted yellow flowers, but the pale yellow buds have a satisfying snap, like lightly sauteed mushrooms. —Mike Sula

Emperor’s Choice2238 S. Wentworth | 312-225-8800

$$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Monday-Saturday till midnight, Sunday until 11

Familiar classics are solid at Emperor’s Choice, one of the spiffier restaurants on the Chinatown strip: crisp pot stickers, a lively orange beef with good-quality bone-on meat, a wonton soup vibrant with a rich stock and shrimp-filled dumplings. Seafood is a particular strength, especially plump salt-and-pepper shrimp, Cantonese shell-on lobster, clams with black bean sauce, and whole fish preparations plus a rotating list of specials such as salt-and-pepper soft-shell crab and delicate fresh scallops served on the half shell. Szechuan string beans and mildly spicy Shanghai noodles make for a smooth segue to the more adventurous menu items such as jellyfish and succulent pork belly with preserved greens. Here you dine on white linen, and you can lean back and have a Maker’s Mark. Gary Wiviott

Evergreen2411 S. Wentworth | 312-225-8898

$$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 11

The lobster tank’s gone but the iciclelike chandeliers and waiters in starched shirts and bow ties remain at this Cantonese stalwart. Not in the mood to navigate a 300-item menu, I asked for a sampling of the restaurant’s best. Out came tofu and seafood soup chock-full of shrimp, squid, scallops, tofu, straw mushrooms, and a healthy dose of fresh ginger. Mongolian beef, walnut shrimp, sizzling sea bass, and pea pod leaves with fried soft tofu followed. (I wasn’t dining alone.) Mongolian beef was faultless yet rocked nobody’s world. The walnut shrimp did. A sweet tooth’s dream, the shrimp are fried and coated in sweet mayonnaise; the walnuts are candied and glorious. Given its richness, it’s a dish best enjoyed in small doses, unless you’re under 12 and gunning for a bellyache. When the sea bass, also fried, came to the table I was instructed to ladle it with a sauce of soy and garlic to create its namesake sizzle. No sizzle. But that didn’t detract from the meltingly tender fish. A number of tables hold a lazy Susan and accommodate 12, and Evergreen has the cleanest men’s room in Chinatown. Peter Tyksinski

Golden Bull242 W. Cermak | 312-808-1668

$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 1 | BYO

The Bull has something for both the beef-and-broccoli set and those seeking a challenge like frog with yellow chives. A variety of impeccable Chinese greens are always on offer (usually pea pod shoots, water spinach, mustard greens, and watercress). Fried smelt, steamed whole sole, and deep-fried chicken are customer favorites. The homemade egg rolls are fantastic—plump and greaseless. Seaweed soup is another great starter—the velvety pork broth is loaded with shrimp, ground pork, egg, and seaweed and finished with a dash of sesame oil. The salt-and-pepper fried shrimp is too salty for me, but otherwise faultless. I have mixed feelings about the seafood chow fun; the noodles are alternately crispy-fried and soft—an effect that chow fun enthusiasts seek out—but the heavily cornstarched sauce muddies the shrimp, squid, and scallops. The fried tofu is more than the menu lets on: a brown sauce covers puddinglike tofu and shiitakes. It’s not the revelatory Japanese tofu with king mushrooms offered at Ken-Kee down the block, but it’s close. Peter Tyksinski

Happy Chef Dim Sum2164 S. Archer | 312-808-3689

F 7.1 | S 7.0 | A 5.7 | $ (6 reports)Chinese | Breakfast, lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 2

Canton, a port city, traffics in many foods, and the Cantonese cuisine at Happy Chef reflects this delicious diversity. Party-colored papers on the walls announce tank-fresh scallops, large-mouth fish, frog, and eel; we chose tiny, sweet shrimp (sold by weight), steamed delicately and perked up with jalapeno-laced soy sauce. We also enjoyed a clay pot of bony but delicious duck with hints of ginger, orange peel, and curry. Watercress in bean-curd sauce was bright green and very fresh, with a slight chile afterburn. Dim sum, closely associated with Canton, is served daily. And though Chinese cuisine is not known for desserts (sweets are treated like snacks on the mainland), a strong choice here is “crispy milk,” the liquid frozen and cut into balls, then batter fried and arrayed with Cantonese simplicity around a bowl of sugar. Happy Chef is unlikely to win any interior design awards—the tablecloths are made of Hefty bag plastic, the china is chipped, the teapots cracked—but service is friendly and the adventurous menu rewards exploration. David Hammond

House of Fortune2407 S. Wentworth | 312-225-0880

$$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days

It’s a Chinese restaurant specializing in family feasts and banquet dinners. As a casual diner, it’s best not to buck the trend, but rather go with a crowd and order a lazy Susan full of food. Peking duck is a signature dish in which paper-thin homemade pancakes (some of the best in Chinatown) and crispy-sweet duck skin are the stars. Preparations like Szechuan shrimp, baked Maine lobster with onions and ginger, and Dungeness crab in black bean sauce feature fresh seafood that’s highlighted rather than overwhelmed by sauce. Chinese soup dumplings (called “steamed juicy buns” on the menu) are a coarse, doughy version of the real thing but still can be enjoyable. Some purists sniff at the menu as lacking authenticity, but I’d rather dine on a well-executed egg foo yong than a tired version of stir-fried innards. House of Fortune has a full bar offering umbrella-laden drinks for those looking for a night out on the town; it’s also one of few Chinatown restaurants to deliver north of the Loop. Kristina Meyer

Joy Yee’s Noodle Shop2159 S. China Pl. | 312-328-0001

F 7.5 | S 6.5 | A 6.2 | $$ (11 reports)Asian, Noodles | Lunch, dinner: seven days | BYO

Joy Yee’s offers accessible and well-prepared fare from China, Japan, Thailand, Korea, Vietnam, and Malaysia—and it offers a lot; the numbered menu goes up to almost 1,000. In recognition of the compendious listings we started with a 1,000-year-old egg that had been coated in ash and tea and buried for about 100 days. The result is a remarkably rich purple egg with an intriguing gelatinous texture. Lemongrass beef, though not bad, was not very good either, but we had a very fresh, very flavorful order of Szechuan green beans and garlic with little clumps of salty fish. Also wonderfully fresh were the ingredients in our chicken udon: meat and vegetables alike had just-from-the-market tooth. There are a number of baked rice dishes served in woodlike canisters. We had the seafood baked rice, which was OK, though I will never accept that krab is seafood. To drink there are Taiwanese bubble teas as well as tapiocas and jelly freezes—or you might consider bringing along a gewurztraminer or Riesling. David Hammond

Ken-Kee Restaurant2129-A S. China Pl. | 312-326-2088

$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 1 | BYO

With two separate menus and walls papered with interesting specials, this sparsely furnished restaurant in the Chinatown Mall offers dishes from all over the map—and off it as well. There’s a Pork Chop With Thousand Island Sauce that sounds like an Italian futurist dreamed it up. But Ken-Kee doesn’t overreach. It does many, many things very well, from standards like beef with broccoli to 24 variations on simple congee to more interesting creations like the five-spice lotus root with Chinese sausage and bacon, and endlessly fascinating combinations of ingredients like duck tongues and baby pea tips. It would take months to work through the menus, but if seafood is a good benchmark to measure a busy kitchen’s standards, Ken-Kee’s are high: the fried smelt special, battered and dressed with chiles, was unbelievably fresh. Mike Sula

KS Seafood2163 S. China Pl. | 312-842-1238

$$Chinese, Other Asian | Lunch, dinner: seven days | BYO

When Chiang Kai-shek hauled butt off the mainland in ’49, he brought along fellow Kuomintang from all over an increasingly red China; on Taiwan (aka Formosa), there was rapid cross-fertilization of many regional culinary traditions. At KS Seafood Restaurant they plate cuisines from Canton, Szechuan, and Fujian provinces, but Taiwanese chow is the draw: ask the welcoming host Tom for the Chinese menu and he’ll march you through fading color pix of island dishes. “Stinky tofu” heads up the parade of exotica; fermented with leeks and loads of funk, like durian or Roquefort, it’s intimidating, flavorful, and well deserving of mention in your food diary. The Taiwanese adore variations on soy curd, and even cautious eaters should enjoy the crunchy crust and creamy core of crispy tofu, which is instantly satisfying in a light, sweet sauce. We grooved on eel rice and roast pork bun, a smashing do-it-yourself sandwich with silky-fat slices of pork, crushed peanuts, cilantro, and diced bitter melon. Preserved egg—purple and fried—was simply dressed in chile pickle, a well-balanced composition of lushness and heat. KS Seafood is BYO; service is extraordinarily gracious. David Hammond

Lao Sze Chuan Restaurant2172 S. Archer | 312-326-5040

F 7.9 | S 6.2 | A 5.5 | $$ (12 reports)Chinese Lunch, dinner: seven days Open late: Till midnight every night Vegetarian friendly

rrr The Saturday evening after Check, Please! featured Lao Sze Chuan, the line snaked out the door into the Chinatown Mall like it was Studio 54 and Alpana Singh and Rick Steves were doing lines in the bathroom. But Tony Hu and his celebrated Szechuan restaurant were prepared for the onslaught: dishes arrived with dispatch despite the crush. Bony Szechuan rabbit, marinated in oil and black vinegar and sprinkled with sweet peanuts, was every bit as pungent as the spicy sliced beef and maw was frightening looking and chewily addictive. Pork hock home style, with a blanket of thick fat covering the tender, fall-apart meat, was drenched in a dark red chile sauce redolent of star anise; powerfully but not painfully seasoned lamb with cumin Xin Jang remains epiphanic. Ma po tofu was the silky heavyweight it always is, and the snacking potential of dishes like chile chicken (tiny deep-fried nuggets tossed with dark red dried chiles) and lightly battered whole chile smelts was fully realized. I just hope public TV fans look beyond the standards recommended on Channel 11 and dive into the endless menu, from Spicy Chengdu Chicken to Jelly Fish Shanghai, smoked tea duck, Szechuan string beans, and the elaborate double-sided hot pots. Mike Sula

Lee Wing Wah2147 S. China Pl. | 312-808-1628

$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | BYO Vegetarian friendly

Cantonese cuisine is characterized by light sauces and a minimum of spice or heat, which permits the natural goodness of the ingredients to shine through. We enjoyed the salt-and-pepper shrimp—fried, seasoned with little more than the that, and meant to be eaten shells, heads, and all. Crispy-skin chicken came as advertised and was wonderfully meaty, seasoned again with just a touch of salt. Crab served in the shell sometimes seems more trouble than it’s worth, but here it’s baked with ginger and onion, two staples of Cantonese seasoning, and the shell breaks cleanly for easy access to the sweet meat. Stir-fried tong choi with spicy bean sauce is a huge platter of tender shoots, a little like spinach only more delicate, in a sauce that’s a far cry from Szechuan fire; stir-fried fish fillets, flavorful and lightly breaded, could hardly get any simpler. You might try Lee Wing Wah’s chicken chow mein just to see how good this often Americanized dish can be: toothsome chunks of chicken over hard noodles crisped in a casserole and served with an almost neutral sauce. Lee Wing Wah is BYO with a $5 corkage fee per table, and there’s a host of bubble drinks. David Hammond

Mandarin Kitchen2143 S. Archer | 312-328-0228

$$Chinese | Breakfast: Friday-Sunday; Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Till 11 every night | BYO | Vegetarian friendly

I suspect that the forlorn fish and eel that peer out from the large tank at the back of this drab room are being punished for former lives dribbled away as Chinatown restaurant designers. Mandarin Kitchen makes up for its typically utilitarian interior by doing quite a few things perfectly well, which in my view just shows that someone’s concentrating on what’s important. The menu’s “braised yellow fish with seaweed” is actually tender fried fish nuggets dusted in powdered nori. Fresh noodles are tossed with seafood and cold dishes are aggressively dosed with seasonings, like the spicy pork stomach, which tasted to me like beef fed on a strict diet of cilantro. There are a lot of addictive little snacks like puffy sesame pancakes sandwiching hoisin-dressed slices of beef and plates of peanuts in dried seaweed. But the best reason to order any of these is to supplement a hot pot: spicy or regular broth set roiling with spices in cauldrons on portable gas stoves. You can get both at once in divided pots; between the two I identified sweet dates, thick slivers of ginger, long twists of ginseng, cracked cardamom pods, black beans, star anise, Szechuan peppercorns, dried red peppers, sesame and cumin seeds, enough garlic to melt birthday candles, and a few bobbing, aromatic nutlike things classified by the waitress as simply “Chinese medicine.” Into this brew you’re meant to plop your choice of almost four dozen raw meat, seafood, and vegetable items including sliced lamb, beef tendon, pork blood, shrimp, fish balls, sea cucumber, napa cabbage, dried bean curd, and “black fungus.” After they’ve cooked, been plucked from the stew with little wire baskets, and eaten, the remaining broth is so rich it could power a chain saw. Mike Sula

Moon Palace216 W. Cermak | 312-225-4081

$$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11 | Vegetarian friendly

Moon Palace specializes in Shanghainese chow. Regional dishes include xiao long bao (soup dumplings), several preparations showcasing eel, and Wine Favorite Soup, a milky broth of white fish and wood-ear mushrooms spiked with alcohol (another marker of a dish from Shanghai). We’d grown wary of beef in Chinese restaurants (so often mushy, so generally sucky), but Five Flavor Beef was a beautiful appetizer, toothsome and dense with flavor, splashed with typically sweet sauce and five-spice seasoning (anise, cinnamon, ginger, clove, and cassia). Sticky rice was also Shanghaied, sculpted into small, sweet plugs, wrapped in pastry skin, and suitable for dunking in a slurry of hot sauce, vinegar, and raw garlic. Our server (apparently a rare Asian Mormon, she had to be vigorously cajoled into bringing us beer) insisted that the pork belly she served was actually the pork shank we ordered; still, the soft, bacony chunks were quite savory amid caramelized lard and hard-boiled egg. Chinatown restaurants frequently have make-do appointments (neon lights, linoleum), but Moon Palace is Martha’d up with wood paneling, tasteful prints on the wall, and a well-stocked bar. —David Hammond

Phoenix2131 S. Archer | 312-328-0848

F 7.4 | S 6.6 | A 5.7 | $$ (14 reports)Chinese | Lunch: Monday-Friday; Dinner: seven days | Saturday & Sunday brunch | Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11

This Chinatown standby is a Rater favorite. At dim sum, served daily, festive morning nibbles intrigue even the most timid eater (although one Rater was less than enamored of the chicken feet). While the language barrier makes descriptions difficult, it pays to try whatever rolls by—ha gaw (shrimp dumplings), char siu bao (barbecued pork buns), and chiang fun (shrimp in rice noodles) are all quite tasty. Vegetarians might want to order off the regular menu, as most dim sum dishes contain pork or beef. One Rater feels that “Phoenix has the best dim sum in Chicago, hands down” but advises arriving before 10:30 or after 1:30 to avoid the crowd. Laura Levy Shatkin

Saint’s Alp Teahouse2131 S. Archer | 312-842-1886

$Asian, Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till midnight

Saint’s Alp Teahouse, a chain based in Hong Kong, has taken the Taiwanese teahouse and packaged it into a West-friendly franchise. Parked underneath the Phoenix, the Chicago location is cartoonishly bright and cheerful, with service to match. The draw, of course, is the tea—more than 70 crazy-flavored bubble teas with jelly goos and gummy tapioca balls to be sucked up through oversize straws. Ruby grapefruit with trademarked “CitronAgar” was bracingly tart like a grapefruit should be; almond milk tea was great over ice and would have been just as good hot. Saint’s Alp is named after a famous stone said to contain the footprint of Lu Dong-bin, a Taoist immortal known for being accessible (for a demigod) and very quick—a description that also fits the food here. My favorite so far among the 20 items tagged as signature dishes, a Taiwanese appetizer platter offered tea eggs (hard-boiled eggs stewed in seasoned tea), chicken wings, and spongy orange shrimp balls. Others were less successful: pork-and-vegetable-dumpling soup was innocuous at best, and the Taiwanese Succulent Chicken Chop was a five-spice bore. Deep-fried tako (octopus) balls looked promising but turned out to be one small sliver of tako surrounded by a giant ball of white paste. The standout was a nonsignature item: crispy radish fritters, a deep-fried version of the dim sum dish loh bok goh. Other nonsignature dishes looked equally promising—next time I’ll try the smoked pork neck or spiced beef shin. Kristina Meyer

Sakura Sushi234 W. Cermak | 312-326-9168

$$Japanese | Dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 2

If you like wandering among the Walgreens-style pagodas of Chinatown Place but don’t always feel equal to a big pile of stir-fry at stroll’s end, it’s nice to know there’s a little Japanese joint on the Cermak strip offering a full slate of sushi, shabu-shabu, and udon and soba soups. The teriyaki combos are cheap and decent, and though I prefer Matsuya’s thin slices over the chunky pieces offered in the beef combo here, the rice was good and the meat flavorful. The two koroke (lightly fried potato croquettes) included in the deal were surprisingly yummy, while the soup and salad were perfunctory. The sushi is good stuff for the price, fresh and very pretty; the seaweed salad was delicious, and the spinach in the oshi tashi was perfectly blanched to a chipper green (if a bit overladen with gooey sesame sauce). The service is swell, and the bright basement room feels cozy rather than cramped. Ann Sterzinger

Seven Treasures Cantonese Cuisine2312 S. Wentworth | 312-225-2668

$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 2:30

The keys to happiness at Seven Treasures are many: Chinese barbecue, noodles in soup with fresh shrimp wontons, congee (rice porridge), simple vegetable dishes prepared with oyster sauce or fermented tofu. Start with a quick perusal of the gorgeous full-frontal barbecue display—crisp roast pig, succulent duck, red-tinted pork, and moist soya chicken served with astoundingly flavorful ginger scallion oil. Tasty pork broth heaped with wontons and a tangle of noodles makes for an inexpensive lunch, though a “double” on rice (your choice of two barbecued meats) for under $5 is one of the better deals in Chicago. It’s not that there isn’t the full spectrum of Cantonese-American classics here—egg foo yong with lifeless cornstarch-laden gravy, a ridiculously sticky-sweet version of sweet-and-sour pork, crab Rangoon—it’s just that you don’t want or need them. Damn good table chile oil, service that ranges from adequate to good, well-spaced tables, and late hours help ensure Seven Treasures’ continued popularity. —Gary Wiviott

Shui Wah2162-A S. Archer | 312-225-8811$Chinese | Breakfast, lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 2 | BYO

It’s tiny, and before 3 PM all you can get is dim sum, but in my book Shui Wah serves the best in town: made to order and consistently flawless. There are no carts languidly lapping the room; diners use an order form with prices and easy-to-understand translations. Standouts include sticky rice in lotus leaf, steamed bean curd roll stuffed with pork, shark fin dumplings, fried taro cake, and any of the rice noodle crepes (wide, soft noodles encasing pork, beef, or veggies). In late afternoon dim sum ceases and the restaurant owners cede Shui Wah to Tom Tong, who rents the space each evening. The odd arrangement works: Tong turns out reliable, plentiful, and often elegant renditions of Hong Kong standards. My jumbo shrimp in lemongrass and tomato sauce included a delightful carrot sculpture and sprigs of cilantro, and I had a remarkable dish of pea pod greens, the tough stems removed and only the delicate, vegetal leaves remaining. Two picture menus featuring oddities like fried whole squab and pig intestines call for a return visit. Peter Tyksinski

Three Happiness209 W. Cermak | 312-842-1964

$Chinese | Breakfast, lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: 24 hours every day

Crunch into shell-on salt-and-pepper shrimp—juicy and fragrant with five-spice mix—or dry stir-fried blue crab, perfumed with ginger and scallion, and you realize that “Little” Three Happiness has a more expert hand with seafood than many far more upscale restaurants. Crisp panfried noodles, rice or wheat, groan under a shrimp-boat’s catch of fresh seafood or a combination of barbecued pork and five-spice-accented roast duck. Crispy-skinned chicken is a revelation: moist, tender meat and succulent crisp skin served with lemon wedge, Szechuan pepper-salt mix, and a topknot of cilantro. Stir-fried watercress, pea shoots with garlic, and lettuce with oyster sauce are sure to please, but for a change of pace water spinach with fermented tofu (ong choi with fu yee) is a winner. Raymond and Betty Yau, who’ve owned “Little” Three Happiness since 1995, gave the place a face-lift a few years back, and it looks nice—though thankfully not so nice as to violate Calvin Trillin’s inverse ambience theory of Chinese restaurants. The clams in black bean sauce are as good as ever. Gary Wiviott

Triple Crown211 W. 22nd Pl.| 312-791-0788

$$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 2 | BYO

At Triple Crown the selection is wide, prices reasonable, and portions massive. Yet after two appetizers, three soups, and five entrees we were left ruing the blandness of Cantonese food. An exception was hot-and-sour soup with baby shrimp, tofu, and Chinese vegetables; more sour than hot, it was also rich and flavorful—one of the best I’ve had. Seaweed soup was light and fresh, egg-drop light and salty, fried shrimp and cuttlefish just light. Our entrees were more of the same. The worn menus boast some adventurous choices: abalone braised and sliced with fish maw, Chinese ham with jellyfish, braised Chinese mushrooms with fish lips. But with three kids in our group of six, we dined family on fried scallops with vegetables, chicken with panfried rice noodles, deep-fried tofu, barbecue beef, and “big bowl noodle in soup,” which consisted of mixed seafood, tomato, tofu, and vegetables in about a gallon of clear broth. Everything was fresh but flavorless, though the barbecue beef was sweet, at least. Jeffrey Felshman

Won Kow

2237 S. Wentworth | 312-842-7500

$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Friday & Saturday till midnight, other nights till 11

Opened in 1927, this huge Chinatown dining room holds the title as the oldest restaurant in Chinatown. A steep flight of stairs leads up to the second-floor room where dim sum is served up to 4 PM. Raters appreciate the wide variety of dishes both meat and meatless (e.g., a taro turnover). “Many of our friends with Asian backgrounds say that some of the dishes are less than authentic, that they have been skewed towards American tastes,” says one Rater. “Still, they’ve had stewed chicken’s feet on the menu several times, and I’m pretty sure that’s not particularly American.” Laura Levy Shatkin