Brisquites! Credit: Heffer BBQ

Texas was once Mexican. Texas is Mexican again this November 14 when Heffer BBQ returns to Monday Night Foodball, the Reader’s weekly chef pop-up at the Kedzie Inn in Irving Park.

I’m sure you remember back in September, the last time someone parked a 500-gallon offset smoker outside the bar and the sweet haze of smoked meat wafted over the streets. Shawn Smith and Leonor Quezada, with their smoked chicken tinga tostada, were a critical part of the sorcerers’ cabal that lured a steady column of salivating, red-eyed flesh eaters that helplessly followed its narcotic scent through the doors.

The married duo got their start during the pandemic with a small Costco smoker in their Pilsen backyard, but their synergy of Mexican and central Texas-style barbecue quickly became a weekly presence in the brewery pop-up arena. 

This week they and their 14-foot smoker Pauline are headlining MNF, with a heaping preview of what’s to come at their December residency at Kimski. That means brisket and pork-belly smoked Italian meatballs in marinara; smo-fried chicken wings or baby back ribs, chips and Hatch-chili queso dip (add brisket!); and for the plant eaters, a kale salad (hold the smoked beef tallow croutons)—plus Quezada’s scratch banana pudding.

I’m certain their street corn salad with a smoked brisket add-on (brisket + esquites = brisquites) will rival last September’s tostada for the thing that wakes me up at 3 AM every night to stare into the tragically empty fridge.

No preorders this time. Come early, come often, and come prepared to CashDrop your order starting at 5 PM at 4100 N. Kedzie.

Meantime, set your sundials to the remaining fall Foodball schedule: