Chicken of the trees

The rural eastern gray squirrel has long been a valued food source, but what about its urban cousin?

The Real American Pie

Mince pie—the kind made with meat—was once inextricable from our national identity. We spent weeks preparing it and days digesting it. We ignored the clergy crusading against it and fought in court for the right to dose it with booze. We devoured it for breakfast, supper, and dessert, and we shipped it to our soldiers to remind them of home. Then in short order it disappeared almost completely from the American table. I can’t tell you why—but I can tell you it’s delicious.

Browse the archives of Chicago Reader articles, which go back to 1971.