My local pizzeria is on auto dial, and the guy who answers knows my name, order, and baby’s nap schedule by heart. Even so, I usually end up with a tepid dinner in a freshly steamed cardboard box. Over congealed cheese I sometimes fantasize about a chef on wheels who would park his truck out front, mix up a meal, and only ring the buzzer when everything was ready to serve. But restrapreneurs Audrey Fosse, Eric Fosse, and Matthew Weinstein have done one better. Their HomeMade Pizza Company makes pizza to order and delivers it raw. (You can also pick up from the stark-if-stylish storefront on Belmont.) Tuck your pale pie in the oven (425 degrees, bottom rack) and 11 t0 17 minutes later pull out a pizza that’s about 400 degrees hotter and 100 times better than the usual.

–Leah Eskin

The Miesian Cheerful fresh tomatoes, it seems to me, deserve way more roasted garlic and basil companionship.

Fresh Herb Olive oil and herbs ought to be the perfect foil for the perfect crust, which HomeMade Pizza has in fact achieved. It’s flaky. It’s chewy. It’s delightful. Unfortunately it’s overwhelmed by a heavy hand with the Asiago, mozzarella, and provolone. I’d go cheeseless and flaunt it.

Sausage and Caramelized Onion HomeMade calls this its signature dish–and with good reason. It’s complex and flavorful. Cheese and sauce meld into a gorgeous pink bubbly backdrop for chunks of tasty sausage and swirls of onion melted to sweet, smooth stickiness.

Wild Mushroom Mushrooms suffer the same neglect as the spinach, dehydrating instead of cooking in the heat. The fontinella, on the other hand, is lovely and mellow.

The Georgia Sausage warmed by sultry cumin set against pristine ricotta. Personally, I’d lose the pepper. But that’s the beauty of HomeMade. You can edit your pizza as you please, give the impression you’ve made dinner, yet have nothing to offer your dishwasher short of a crumby cardboard round.

HomeMade Pizza Company, at 1137 W. Belmont, is open Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 9, Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 9:30, and Sunday 12:30 to 8:30. Call 773-529-5900 or fax 773-529-5903.

Art accompanying story in printed newspaper (not available in this archive): menu.