Grace is spelled with a halo over the G, and while the calm interior, upbeat sound track, and well-prepared food might not qualify as divine, it certainly makes for a delicious, relaxed evening.

–Leah Eskin

Maine Diver Scallops Seared to a delightfully tacky exterior, floating over an intensely reduced lobster-potato puree. Damn near perfection.

Wild Mushroom Salad Pedestrian mushrooms, candied nuts, and dark bacon chunks sunk deep into a balsamic pool and tossed with fresh pea shoots, which were not entirely up to the task of cajoling the others from their smoky languor. Good for dipping hunks of the pepper-flecked or black-olive-pocked bread.

Risotto Plump with big smoky mussels, wonderful cumin-spiked seafood sausage, and a confetti of fresh herbs.

Wild Boar We didn’t try the entree, but were treated to a tiny predinner slice that oddly got most of its flavor from a pepper rub. Served over crisp asparagus bits and tart huckleberry syrup–altogether a surprise.

Braised Colorado Lamb Shank Slowly roasted till tender and set over a collection of undercooked and crunchy cannellinis. The jus was billed as natural but had an admirably concentrated intensity.

Wild Blackberry Stuffed Venison Loin A superb chunk of tender meat with the deep heartiness sirloin often aspires to and misses. Paired happily with a slightly sweet berry glaze. Decorated with cute but somewhat flavorless little Brussels balls and a drift of Yukon Gold mashed potatoes.

We lingered over a mushy tart tatin, and an extremely pistachio custard–a find if you actually like pistachios. All in all a graceful evening at table.

Grace, 623 W. Randolph, Chicago, is open for lunch from 11 AM to 2 PM Monday through Friday and for dinner from 5 to 10 PM Monday through Thursday, 5 to midnight Friday and Saturday. Call 312-928-9200 for more information.

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