Green apple jam with celery oil

Jason Hammel, Lula Cafe

6 green apples

4 c water

1 c sugar

½ tsp powdered pectin

1 T lemon juice

1 c grape seed oil

1 c celery leaves

1 bunch sage

Core the apples and place in water, skins on, along with lemon juice, sage, sugar, and pectin. Cook over medium heat until apples soften completely. Puree in blender or food processor at high speed. Chill. Check consistency. If a thicker and more jammy consistency is needed, return to heat and reduce by a third over a low-medium flame. Chill.

Heat 3 qts water to a boil. Add 1 T salt. At superhigh heat blanch celery leaves for 20 seconds, then shock in an ice water bath. Remove from bath, squeeze out excess water, and roughly chop the leaves. In a blender add leaves and ½ c grape seed oil and process until the oil is a preternaturally bright green, almost neon. (NB: if the puree is left too long in the blender at high speed, it will heat and dull this color.) Cool.

Combine the apple puree and the celery oil when cold. Apples vary widely in acidity—jam should be tart, slightly sweet and bright in flavor. Add sugar and/or lemon juice, if necessary, to balance jam accordingly.


Paul Virant, Vie

For 5 lbs of farce:

3 lbs pork shoulder

2/3 lb pork skin

1/4 lb liver (pork preferred, but they are big; chicken livers would be a good sub)

1 tsp pink peppercorns

2 tsp herbes de Provence

2 tsp fresh sage

1 1/2 T salt

1 c red wine, reduced with 2 bay leaves to 1 oz and cooled

2 lb caul fat

Blanch the skin by placing it in water and bringing to a slight simmer. Let the skin cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Take out of the water and let it cool slightly. While the skin is still warm, rub the fat off its back with a knife so all you have is the skin. Cool.

Next cube the pork and liver and grind through a medium die, about 3/8 inch. Then grind the skin through 1/16 inch die. Place meat in a bowl and keep cool.

Tear the sage into small pieces and toss in a blender with the herbes de Provence and pink peppercorns. Add the red wine and salt, then mix for a few more seconds. Then add the wine and spices to the meat and mix well till it is tacky.

Portion into 2-oz balls and wrap in caul fat. Brown the sides and finish in a 400 degree oven till just cooked, about 8 to 10 minutes.


Brian Huston, The Publican

4 lb pork loin with fat cap

salt and pepper

1/4 c extra-virgin olive oil

1 head garlic

1 shallot

zest of 1 lemon (reserve the juice)

3 anchovy fillets

1 tsp capers

1 T fresh rosemary

1 T fresh thyme

4 red onions, halved

(1) A day ahead, season the loin with salt and pepper, using 1 tsp of sea salt per pound of meat.

(2) In a blender, make a paste out of the oil, garlic, shallot, lemon zest, anchovies, capers, rosemary, and thyme. Rub paste all over the loin. Refrigerate.

(3) Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

(4) Place loin in roasting pan on top of onions. Set in oven, fat cap up, and roast for about 75 minutes or until the internal temperature is 140 degrees. (I always check my roast halfway, in this case after 30 minutes, to gauge when the roast will be done.)

(5) Let the loin rest out of the oven, covered loosely with foil, before cutting. This will ensure the roast maintains its juice.

(6) After slicing the loin, sprinkle each serving with the reserved lemon juice. Serve with lentils or potatoes and a simple salad.v